| WAT THAMMARAM (วัดธรรมาราม) |
Wat Thammaram prior called Wat Thamma or the "Monastery of the Dharma" (the
teachings of the Buddha) is located off the city island in the western area, along the west
bank of the Chao Phraya River in Thung Worachet/Prachet field and north of Wat
Kasatrathirat.
In situ are monastic structures of recent time, although underneath are still the foundations
of ancient monastic structures visible. Remains of the old outer wall - the crystal wall -
and the lower part of the old gates still can be seen.
At the time of visit, Fine Arts Department was excavating the temple area.
It is related in the Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya that on this spot during the siege of
Ayutthaya in 1569 Phraya Thamma had set up his stockade to defend the west side of
the City of Ayutthaya against the Burmese; an important strategical position because it lie
across from Sop Sawan Monastery and nearly in front of the Rear Palace.
The King of Hongsawadi, Bhureng Noung, planned to launch a decisive attack to seize
Ayutthaya, although Prince Thammaracha of Phitsanulok feared that an attack on the city
would cost dearly in soldiers. He decided to use a ruse. He summoned Phraya Chakri,
who was one of the hostages sent to Burma with Prince Ramesuen after the second
Burmese invasion in 1563, to attend him alone. After having him swear an oath of
allegiance, the Prince held a secret discussion and proposed Phraya Chakri to gain the
favor of the Burmese King.
Prince Thammaracha informed the King of Hongsawadi of a stratagem and the latter as
part of the plan, had Phraya Chakri sentenced and imprisoned. Thirty Burmese,
Mon and Lao, were set on guard over him. After a few days Prince Thammaracha sent
men to release Phraya Chakri secretly. Phraya Thamma entered at Phraya Thamma’s
position in the middle of the night in all his fetters, pretending that he had escaped from
confinement.
The next morning the King of Hongsawadi made a pretense of having a search made for
Phraya Chakri throughout the army. As of course he was not found, the King had the
thirty guards taken to be paraded around the army and then immediately executed and
impaled in front of the stockade of Phraya Thamma.
Phraya Thamma escorted Phraya Chakri for an audience with King Mahin of Ayutthaya.
The king, assuming that Phraya Chakri really escaped, placed him in charge of the
defense of the city. Over the weeks Phraya Chakri succeeded in reducing the strength of
the Ayutthayan army, where after he informed the Burmese King to launch his final
attack. Ayutthaya fell to the Burmese for the first time on 30 August 1569, a victim to the
treachery of one of her own sons. [1]
This temple had in Ayutthayan days a ferry landing crossing the old Lopburi River - at
present the Chao Phraya River (1) - to Chao Phraya Ponlathep's residence on the city
Island. (2) [2] The ferry landing is mentioned in the epic story "Khun Chang, Khun
Phaen".
"At Wat Thamma, they stopped and dismounted from the elephant by the
riverbank. Little Khun Chang and his father crossed the river and waited to enter
the city."
The site is indicated on a mid-19th century map and on Phraya Boran Rachathanin's map
drafted in 1926. On the oldest map we find the presence of a chedi, still in existence.
Footnotes:
(1) The Chao Phraya River has been deviated into the river bed of the old Lopburi River
in the post-Ayutthayan era anno 1857. See the essay: Ayutthaya's ever-changing
waterways.
(2) In Ayutthayan times there were twenty-two ferry routes. In the western area, the
three other crossings were: from Wat Chayaram to Ban Chi, from Tha Dan Lom to Wat
Kasatra and from the Rear Palace to Wat Lot Chong. [2] See "The Boat & Ferry
Landings of Ayutthaya".
References:
[1] The Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya - Richard D. Cushman (2006) - page 72 /
Source: Phan Canthanumat, British Museum, Reverend Phonnarat, Phra
Cakkraphatdiphong & Royal Autograph.
[2] อธิบายแผนที่พระนครศรีอยุธยากับคำวินิจฉัยของพระยาโบราฌราชาธานินท์
ฉบับชำระครั้งที่๒ และ ภูมิสถนกรุงศรีอยุธยา (2007) - Explanation of the map of the
Capital of Ayutthaya with a ruling of Phraya Boran Rachathanin - Revised 2nd edition
and Geography of the Ayutthaya Kingdom - Ton Chabab print office - Nonthaburi
(2007) - page 92.
teachings of the Buddha) is located off the city island in the western area, along the west
bank of the Chao Phraya River in Thung Worachet/Prachet field and north of Wat
Kasatrathirat.
In situ are monastic structures of recent time, although underneath are still the foundations
of ancient monastic structures visible. Remains of the old outer wall - the crystal wall -
and the lower part of the old gates still can be seen.
At the time of visit, Fine Arts Department was excavating the temple area.
It is related in the Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya that on this spot during the siege of
Ayutthaya in 1569 Phraya Thamma had set up his stockade to defend the west side of
the City of Ayutthaya against the Burmese; an important strategical position because it lie
across from Sop Sawan Monastery and nearly in front of the Rear Palace.
The King of Hongsawadi, Bhureng Noung, planned to launch a decisive attack to seize
Ayutthaya, although Prince Thammaracha of Phitsanulok feared that an attack on the city
would cost dearly in soldiers. He decided to use a ruse. He summoned Phraya Chakri,
who was one of the hostages sent to Burma with Prince Ramesuen after the second
Burmese invasion in 1563, to attend him alone. After having him swear an oath of
allegiance, the Prince held a secret discussion and proposed Phraya Chakri to gain the
favor of the Burmese King.
Prince Thammaracha informed the King of Hongsawadi of a stratagem and the latter as
part of the plan, had Phraya Chakri sentenced and imprisoned. Thirty Burmese,
Mon and Lao, were set on guard over him. After a few days Prince Thammaracha sent
men to release Phraya Chakri secretly. Phraya Thamma entered at Phraya Thamma’s
position in the middle of the night in all his fetters, pretending that he had escaped from
confinement.
The next morning the King of Hongsawadi made a pretense of having a search made for
Phraya Chakri throughout the army. As of course he was not found, the King had the
thirty guards taken to be paraded around the army and then immediately executed and
impaled in front of the stockade of Phraya Thamma.
Phraya Thamma escorted Phraya Chakri for an audience with King Mahin of Ayutthaya.
The king, assuming that Phraya Chakri really escaped, placed him in charge of the
defense of the city. Over the weeks Phraya Chakri succeeded in reducing the strength of
the Ayutthayan army, where after he informed the Burmese King to launch his final
attack. Ayutthaya fell to the Burmese for the first time on 30 August 1569, a victim to the
treachery of one of her own sons. [1]
This temple had in Ayutthayan days a ferry landing crossing the old Lopburi River - at
present the Chao Phraya River (1) - to Chao Phraya Ponlathep's residence on the city
Island. (2) [2] The ferry landing is mentioned in the epic story "Khun Chang, Khun
Phaen".
"At Wat Thamma, they stopped and dismounted from the elephant by the
riverbank. Little Khun Chang and his father crossed the river and waited to enter
the city."
The site is indicated on a mid-19th century map and on Phraya Boran Rachathanin's map
drafted in 1926. On the oldest map we find the presence of a chedi, still in existence.
Footnotes:
(1) The Chao Phraya River has been deviated into the river bed of the old Lopburi River
in the post-Ayutthayan era anno 1857. See the essay: Ayutthaya's ever-changing
waterways.
(2) In Ayutthayan times there were twenty-two ferry routes. In the western area, the
three other crossings were: from Wat Chayaram to Ban Chi, from Tha Dan Lom to Wat
Kasatra and from the Rear Palace to Wat Lot Chong. [2] See "The Boat & Ferry
Landings of Ayutthaya".
References:
[1] The Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya - Richard D. Cushman (2006) - page 72 /
Source: Phan Canthanumat, British Museum, Reverend Phonnarat, Phra
Cakkraphatdiphong & Royal Autograph.
[2] อธิบายแผนที่พระนครศรีอยุธยากับคำวินิจฉัยของพระยาโบราฌราชาธานินท์
ฉบับชำระครั้งที่๒ และ ภูมิสถนกรุงศรีอยุธยา (2007) - Explanation of the map of the
Capital of Ayutthaya with a ruling of Phraya Boran Rachathanin - Revised 2nd edition
and Geography of the Ayutthaya Kingdom - Ton Chabab print office - Nonthaburi
(2007) - page 92.
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| Text & photographs by Tricky Vandenberg - May 2009 Reviewed May 2011 |
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| (Click button for aerial view) |
| (Entry gate and wall around Wat Thammaram) |
| (Ordination hall of Wat Thammaram) |
| (Bell-shaped chedi in between ubosot and vihara) |
| (Old inner wall and excavations) |
| (Old inner wall and excavations) |
| (View from the river) |