WAT PHRA NON (2)





Wat Phra Non, or the Monastery of the Reclining Buddha, was located off the city island in the eastern area of Ayutthaya, in the Khlong Suan Phlu Sub-district. Wat Chumphon stood west, while Wat Kradok was east. The three monasteries could be accessed by the canals Khlong Suan Phlu, Khlong Dusit and Khlong Phra Non. Khlong Pra Non passed south of the three monasteries. Historical data about the monastery and its construction is unknown. In the Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya, there is a possible reference to this temple site. (1)


During the year 1654 CE, a feud occurred in the royal family of Cambodia. The King Preah Bat Somdet Ramathipadi I (Ponhea Chan - reign 1642-1658 CE) and Prince Prea-ang Em on one side, and the princes Prea-Batom-Rachéa and Prea-ang Tan on the other, called in their partisans and started a war. The latter two, aided by a strong Ayutthayan army, were defeated. The Nguyen Prince Hien Vuong (reign 1649-1686 CE), Emperor of the South, was called in by the Annamese widow of the former King Chey Chettha II (Ponhea Nhom - reign 1618-1628 CE) on the side of the latter two princes and in 1658 the Nguyen Emperor sent in an army under the Governor of Phu Yen, General Ong Chieng Thu. Prince Prea-ang Em was killed in battle, and King Ponhea Chan was taken prisoner and brought to Cochin China in an iron cage, where he died at the age of 40 (2). After that, in 1658 CE Prince Prea-Batom-Rachéa came to the throne as King Preah Bat Somdet Borom Reachea V (r.1658–1672). In 1659, the sons of the captive King Ponhea Chan, being Prea-ang Ni, Prea-ang Outey and Prea-ang Am, sought a safe haven in Ayutthaya together with the old Court of their father, the Priest Prea-Soccon and 2200 people of all ranks. (3) [1]


“During 1021 [1659 CE] of the Era, a year of the boar, first of the decade, Luang Kamroep Phra Phrai, Luang Cong Racha, Luang Som, Luang Ratcha Kuman, Luang Ratcha Sena, Luang Sena Wichai and their khun and mün together with their braves - two thousand, two hundred and fourteen people immigrated to be under the Holy Royal Accumulation of Merit. And all these - the Patriarch Sukhon, who had been a relative and supporter of Nak Can, together with Nak Ni and Nak Wara Uthai and Nak Am, who were his nephews - being unable to find a haven, led their various supporters in to be under the Holy Royal Accumulation of Merit. The King manifested His holy compassion by being pleased to make holy royal gifts of all the receptacle and utensil paraphernalia to the Patriarch Sukhon and all of his relatives and supporters who had come to be under the Holy Royal Accumulation of Merit, all without exception received holy royal gifts in their turn. Now the Patriarch Sukhon was allowed to reside on the grounds of the Monastery of the Reclining Monk close by the grounds of the Monastery of Caophraya Thai.” [2]





(View of the reclining Buddha of Wat Phra Non - Picture courtesy of Sean Alcock)



Wat Phra Non was situated on the southern edge of what is believed to have been a Khmer Baray, an ancient artificial reservoir dating back to the pre-Ayutthaya time. Barays were located in close vicinity of a Khmer sanctuary. This Khmer sanctuary is believed to have been on the site of the present Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon. The Khmer ruled over this area from the early 11th century until the mid-13th century from Lavo (Lopburi). The pre-Ayutthaya outpost here was known as Ayodhya Pura. (3)


The site is indicated on Fine Arts Department maps. Some temple remnants were excavated and partially restored by the Fine Arts Department (FAD) after the enormous flood of Oct-Nov 2011 CE.


The ruins of Wat Phra Non are in geographical coordinates: 14° 20' 26.28" N, 100° 35' 19.78" E.


Footnotes:


(1) There is another temple ruin with nearly a similar name called Wat Khok Phra Non or the Monastery of the Mound of the Reclining Buddha, which is also situated near Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon (Wat Chao Phraya Thai).

(2) There is another version, probably more accurate, stating that he was taken captive in Cochin China, and transported with the loot and guns taken by the Annamese. He was deported to Quang Binli and released and even replaced on the throne, on condition of paying tribute to the lord of Hue and handing over Bien Hoa or Dong Nai. Finally, he died shortly after his return. [Ref : Etienne Aymonier. Le Cambodge III - Le Groupe d'Angkor et l'Histoire. Paris (1904). p. 775.

(3) The reign dates of the mentioned Cambodian kings are approximate. 1658 CE is the date given by the Dutch of the Annamese occupation in which the Dutch Lodge in Cambodia was pillaged and burned.

(4) The area of Ayothya was probably already populated at the end of the Dvaravati era (6th to 11th centuries). There is some evidence that a community settled in this area much earlier than 1351 CE, the date of establishment of the city of Ayutthaya. Sources mention that during the reign of Suryavarman I (1002-1050 CE) of Angkor, the Khmers occupied the area and established a stronghold here as an appendage of Lopburi, naming it Ayothya after the ancient and one of the holiest Hindu cities of India, the old capital of Awadh, in the Faizabad district of Uttar Pradesh. Phraya Boran Ratchathanin (1871-1936 CE), who was the Superintendent Commissioner of Monthon Ayutthaya from 1925 to 1929 CE but occupied important functions since 1896 CE in Monthon Ayutthaya, suggested in 1907 CE that "a pre-Ayudhyan city was situated immediately to the east of the location of Ayudhya," Prince Damrong Rajanubhap (1862-1943 CE), a prominent figure in Thai history known for his significant contributions in various fields including history, decided seven years later that a city called Ayothya "was founded by the Khmer who were ruling at Lopburi". The reason that they concluded that there must have been an earlier town before Ayutthaya was established in 1351 CE was probably the mentioning of its existence in records such as the Chronicles of Nakhon Sri Thammarat, the Chronicle of the Sihing Buddha Image, the Chronicle of the North, the Chronicle of Yonok, the Mulasasana and the Jinakalamali. Until today, hardly any archaeological research has been done to determine methodically that a pre-Ayutthaya city was situated immediately east of Ayutthaya. References: [1] Moura, J. (1883). Le Royaume du Cambodge. 2ieme Tome. Paris. p. 63. [2] Cushman, Richard D. & Wyatt, David K. (2006). The Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya. Bangkok: The Siam Society. p. 248.