WAT WIHAN THONG





Wat Wihan Thong, or the Monastery of the Golden Vihara, was located off the city island in the northern area of Ayutthaya, in the Hua Ro Sub-district. The temple was situated on the west bank of Khlong Mueang (1). Wat Wihan Thong stood northeast of Wat Intharam on private grounds. The temple was opposite Wat Khian on the other bank of the river.


Most of the monasteries along the old Lopburi were accessible by water. Still, their premises were split up last century due to the construction of a road from Wat Mai Khlong Sra Bua towards the Elephant Kraal. This split is the case with Wat Kuti Thong, Wat Wong Khong and Wat Mae Nang Pluem.


In situ is a brick mound with some pillars, likely from the ordination hall, still standing. They can only be accessed through the small street adjacent to Wat Intharam and a small path between the stilt houses. The ruins are situated in the back garden of the latter. A chedi and an old Bodhi tree can be found on the premises of a private bus company. The chedi is twenty-rabbeted-angled, an architectural style from the second part of the late Ayutthaya period (1633-1767 CE), sometimes called the Fourth period. This period begins with King Borommakot's accession to the throne in 1733 CE and ends when the Ayutthaya kingdom was devastated by the Burmese in 1767 CE. King Borommakot (reign 1733-1758 CE) was determined to renovate old religious structures rather than build new ones, and he restored many ancient monasteries and monuments.


Historical data about the monastery and its construction are unknown.


The site is indicated on a 19th-century map and Phraya Boran Rachathanin's map drafted in 1926 CE.


The ruin of Wat Wihan Thong is at the geographical coordinates: 14° 21' 58.38" N, 100° 34' 6.22" E.





(Minor Chedi at Wat Wihan Thong - November 2009 CE)



Noh Na Paknam


Noh Na Paknam was a prolific writer, art historian, and preservationist who worked closely with Silpakorn University and the Fine Arts Department, and who wrote extensively on Thai temples, antiques, and murals. From November 1966 to March 1967 CE, he spent five months in the Ayutthaya area, visiting known temples and ruins. He visited Wat Wihan Thong in early December 1966 CE. The following is a report from his site visit.


“Leaving Wat Indraram, we headed east to Wat Wihan Thong. We were shocked to find it a ruined temple, with only a tall, slender prang (tower) remaining. In 1958, we had walked around the ruins of the main chapel and seen octagonal pillars with intricate lotus-petal capitals. Behind the chapel was a niche containing the main Buddha image, enclosed in a glass case attached to the wall. Inside the glass case, painted light brown, we found fragments of corrugated roof tiles and a life-sized sandstone Buddha image.


We observed the method of arranging the octagonal pillars: one end of each brick was bevelled, and the bricks were placed alternately, with two sides touching, forming one octagon. The bricks we measured were main bricks (32 x 16 x 6 cm), interspersed with smaller bricks (26 x 14 x 4 cm), and some unusually large bricks measuring 35 x 16 x 6 cm.


On the main prang, specifically the lion's leg motif, we found that special bricks were used to form the lion's legs, which were then covered with mortar. This is what we had memorised from our site plan. There are ancient sites in the Wihan Thong temple as follows: the prang is in front, facing south towards the moat behind the prang there is a round pagoda to the west there are two more small square pagodas further north is the ordination hall to the west there is still a section of the glass wall and the finials of the Mandana.


The images described here were taken in 1958. None remain now. Only one stupa remains the rest are gone, presumably excavated. The bricks have all been sold off. This is the state of protection for antique art and artefacts in Thailand it seems utterly meaningless.”
(2) [1]





(Remaining sandstone pieces of a Buddha image at Wat Wihan Thong - Picture taken November 2009 CE)



Footnotes:


(1) Khlong Mueang, or the City Canal, is a stretch of the old Lopburi River on the northern side of Ayutthaya's city island. Many people believe it is a manufactured canal. The Lopburi River descending from the north ran in the Ayutthaya period around the city and joined the Chao Phraya River near Bang Sai (below Bang Pa-In). Khlong Mueang is a remnant from that time. Today, the canal starts at Hua Ro and has its mouth at the confluence with the Chao Phraya River near Hua Laem.

(2) The Ayutthaya monasteries were sacked and plundered by the Burmese and further dismantled after the fall of Ayutthaya to reconstruct the Siamese capital in Bangkok. Most parts of the walls and forts were dismantled during the reign of King Rama I (1782 - 1809 CE), whose bricks were used to construct the city walls of the new capital in Bangkok. In 1784 CE, bricks from the ruins of Ayutthaya were used to build a barrage in the Lat Pho Canal at Phra Pradaeng to stop saline water from intruding farther inland. Another round of collecting building material occurred in the reign of King Rama III (1824-1851 CE) when remaining bricks and laterite stones, including those of the Thamnop Ro causeway and the Elephant Bridge, were sent down to Bangkok to be used in the construction of a giant stupa, a copy of Ayutthaya's Chedi Phukhao Thong, called Wat Saket, which collapsed into rubble. Ayutthaya's temple bricks were also used to strengthen the bed of the Bangkok-Ayutthaya-Lopburi railway track at the end of the 19th century. In the last century, as demand for antiques increased and amulet markets mushroomed, Ayutthaya's ruins were plundered once more. During the fifties and early sixties, witnesses recount, it was common for locals in the Ayutthaya area to collect the bricks of the ruins. The Department of Religious Affairs agreed to allow merchants to dig up bricks from abandoned temples and load them onto boats to sell. The bricks were used locally to help expand other temple sites but were mostly sold to contractors and shipped on a large scale, as there was demand from Bangkok. Trucks and boats from Bangkok collected the bricks at 20 Baht a load. On 15 December 1966 CE, Noh Na Paknam lamented: "Fortunately, Phraya Boran Ratchathanin had surveyed and mapped the area otherwise, future generations would not even know that the area was once a temple. This represents a great decline in the way people lived during that era. Just over 20 years ago, people deeply respected temples and strongly believed in karma and merit. Even when leaving a temple, they would wipe their feet on the grass to prevent soil and sand from clinging to their homes, considering it a sin to take from the temple. Nowadays, excavating and selling bricks from temples has become a minor issue. Even the Department of Religious Affairs once openly organised the excavation and sale of bricks from old temples. Until now, villagers have followed suit. It's gotten to the point where people are cutting off the heads of Buddha statues and selling them, which has become commonplace. Before, foreigners did it themselves. No Thai person dared to hire them because, as Buddhists, they were still ashamed of the sin. Now, we Buddhists are doing it ourselves, without needing foreign intervention, and offering to sell the statues to foreigners. It's incredibly shameful, because even foreigners don't have a history of Christians beheading statues of Jesus and selling them to tourists. This bizarre and outlandish practice is only happening in Thailand. And as for relying on laws to protect ancient artefacts, no government has taken any action. The matter has therefore continued, and we continue to lose our ancient art, left to chance. It's a truly sad and tragic situation." On 25 January 1967 CE, Noh Na Paknam noted: "Speaking of Ayutthaya bricks, it feels like a grave mistake by the government. Once, bricks from various temples were auctioned off for resale, to the point that even contracts from the Department of Public Works and the municipality once specified the use of broken bricks from Ayutthaya, effectively destroying Ayutthaya itself. Even today, the illegal excavation and sale of ancient bricks continue frequently." (Prayoon, 2527).





(Wooden door panels in Ayutthaya Style dating back to the 16-18th century and originating from Wat Wihan Thong are displayed at the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum in Ayutthaya.)