| SAN PHRA KAN |
San Phra Kan, a former Brahmin shrine, is located on the city island in the central area
of Ayutthaya in Pratu Chai sub-district. On its north stands the City Pillar or Lak Muang,
while on its south was Wat Pa Phray (no traces anymore).
In situ are newly built rectangular brick foundations indicating the former spot were the
shrine was situated. The archaeological division of the Silpakon University excavated the
spot in 1969. A Khmer prang with arches in the four cardinal directions was found as
also the statues of Phra Isuan (Shiva), Phra Narai (Vishnu) and Phra Ganesh (Ganesha).
These findings led to the conclusion that this site was a Brahmin shrine in former times.
We read in the Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya: "During 998 of the era, a year of the
rat, eight of the decade, the Supreme-Holy-Buddhist-Lord-Omnipotent had the
shrine of the Holy Isuan and Holy Narai moved on up and located at Chikun."[1]
indicating that King Prasat Thong (r. 1629-1656) moved this shrine to the Chikun area
(see Thewa Sathan) in 1636.
From that time onwards the site was used as a Buddhist religious structure. A vihara was
built in the front of the prang. During excavations last century a Buddha statue and
miscellaneous pottery and utensils were found.
The site is mentioned on Phraya Boran Rachathanin's map drafted in 1926.
The exact date of the construction of the Brahmin shrine is unknown, but due to its
location - in the center of the old city - it could have been located there since the
establishment of Ayutthaya in 1351.
The old records from the Ayutthaya period refer to Phra Sua Muang, Phra Song Muang
and Phra Kan as the guardian deities of the old City of Ayutthaya (4). San Phra Kan was
probably the place where these city guardian deities were worshipped. In the "Short
History of the Kings of Siam 1640", the Dutch VOC merchant Jeremias Van Vliet
recounts a story in which these important city guardian spirits were mentioned. Van Vliet
sets the story during the reign of Ramathibodi II (r. 1491-1529) in which a King on the
Coromandel Coast in Ramaradt (The Thai version of this tale speaks of Benares - India
and Ramathibodhi I) put a spell on the Siamese King. Here under an extract of the text.
"His Majesty had his mandarins and all foreign interpreters summoned and
commanded them to ask these strangers how, whence, and why they had come.
They answered: "Have the king first release us, then we will tell everything
truthfully." His Majesty commanded that they be brought to the following angels:
Phra Trong Muang, Phra Cena Muang, and Phra Canoolij at the Pratu Chai,
that is, the Heart Gate, where (so claim the Siamese) many angels lived, and that
they should honor them in the Siamese way in order that through their prayers they
might be freed." [2]
References:
[1] The Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya - Richard D. Cushman (2006) - page 220 /
Source: Phan Canthanumat, British Museum, Reverend Phonnarat & Royal Autograph.
[2] Van Vliet's Siam - Chris Baker, Dhiravat Na Pombejra, Alfons Van Der Kraan &
David K. Wyatt (2005) - Page 210.
of Ayutthaya in Pratu Chai sub-district. On its north stands the City Pillar or Lak Muang,
while on its south was Wat Pa Phray (no traces anymore).
In situ are newly built rectangular brick foundations indicating the former spot were the
shrine was situated. The archaeological division of the Silpakon University excavated the
spot in 1969. A Khmer prang with arches in the four cardinal directions was found as
also the statues of Phra Isuan (Shiva), Phra Narai (Vishnu) and Phra Ganesh (Ganesha).
These findings led to the conclusion that this site was a Brahmin shrine in former times.
We read in the Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya: "During 998 of the era, a year of the
rat, eight of the decade, the Supreme-Holy-Buddhist-Lord-Omnipotent had the
shrine of the Holy Isuan and Holy Narai moved on up and located at Chikun."[1]
indicating that King Prasat Thong (r. 1629-1656) moved this shrine to the Chikun area
(see Thewa Sathan) in 1636.
From that time onwards the site was used as a Buddhist religious structure. A vihara was
built in the front of the prang. During excavations last century a Buddha statue and
miscellaneous pottery and utensils were found.
The site is mentioned on Phraya Boran Rachathanin's map drafted in 1926.
The exact date of the construction of the Brahmin shrine is unknown, but due to its
location - in the center of the old city - it could have been located there since the
establishment of Ayutthaya in 1351.
The old records from the Ayutthaya period refer to Phra Sua Muang, Phra Song Muang
and Phra Kan as the guardian deities of the old City of Ayutthaya (4). San Phra Kan was
probably the place where these city guardian deities were worshipped. In the "Short
History of the Kings of Siam 1640", the Dutch VOC merchant Jeremias Van Vliet
recounts a story in which these important city guardian spirits were mentioned. Van Vliet
sets the story during the reign of Ramathibodi II (r. 1491-1529) in which a King on the
Coromandel Coast in Ramaradt (The Thai version of this tale speaks of Benares - India
and Ramathibodhi I) put a spell on the Siamese King. Here under an extract of the text.
"His Majesty had his mandarins and all foreign interpreters summoned and
commanded them to ask these strangers how, whence, and why they had come.
They answered: "Have the king first release us, then we will tell everything
truthfully." His Majesty commanded that they be brought to the following angels:
Phra Trong Muang, Phra Cena Muang, and Phra Canoolij at the Pratu Chai,
that is, the Heart Gate, where (so claim the Siamese) many angels lived, and that
they should honor them in the Siamese way in order that through their prayers they
might be freed." [2]
References:
[1] The Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya - Richard D. Cushman (2006) - page 220 /
Source: Phan Canthanumat, British Museum, Reverend Phonnarat & Royal Autograph.
[2] Van Vliet's Siam - Chris Baker, Dhiravat Na Pombejra, Alfons Van Der Kraan &
David K. Wyatt (2005) - Page 210.
| Text & photographs by Tricky Vandenberg - October 2009 Reviewed August 2010 |
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| (San Phra Kan seen from the east) |
| (San Phra Kan seen from the north) |
| (San Phra Kan seen from the west) |