Text & photographs by Tricky Vandenberg - August 2010
Along the old Lopburi River, presently called Khlong Muang or city canal, just opposite the river bank of Wat Kuthi Thong stands a strange stone pillar. Boats with tourists are daily passing by without giving it any attention. On asking people in its vicinity what this pillar exactly stands for, we received different answers going from an old city pillar or Lak Muang until a water gauge.
Steve Van Beek wrote that during the floods of 1831, King Rama III erected a stone pillar at Ayutthaya (approximately 3.5 meters high) to gauge the water level. That year the flood level topped 5.23 m above sea level. The flood of the 20th century, was the one of 1942, registering a maximum of 5.13 meters above sea-level on the Ayutthaya stone pillar. [1]
The pillar looks a bit Roman and has something wrapped around, what could be a Phraya Nak and some figures of deities. On top of the stone pillar stands a square stone - on each side carved with what looks like a Garuda (royal symbol) with another smaller stone cylinder on top of it. Was this Rama III's water gauge? Next to it stands a shrine name Chao Phor Lak Muang or translated "Reverend Father City Pillar", making the whole a bit confusing.
Mid 2010 I started to study a map drafted in the period of Rama III and I found on this map in the northeastern corner of the Grand Palace close to the premises of Wat Thammikarat, a square mark and a point within, indicated "San Lak Muang" or "City Pillar Shrine". This city pillar shrine was thus situated only a few tens of meters of the location of the stone pillar near the canal today.
I deduct from this that the old city pillar, initially located on the Grand Palace grounds, has been moved towards the bank of the old Lopburi River with the purpose of serving as a very basic water gauge. The stone on top has been added to indicate the water level at a certain year (1831?), while the stone cylinder on top of the stone seems to be added afterwards indicating a higher level in a later year (1942 or 1995?).
Was the city pillar moved by King Rama III? Plausible, taken into consideration that the pillar was situated on the Grand Palace grounds, at that time still a Royal possession.
References:
[1] The Chao Phya, River in Transition - Steve Van Beek (1995) - page 135.