Wat Phraya Phan is located south off the city island. This abandoned ruin lies on an upraised hill that is surrounded by water and heavy vegetation. To find it, follow the dirt road leading west from the Dominican Portuguese settlement. It is slightly north of Yamarun Islam Mosque. This ruin can also be accessed from the sealed road on its opposite side, but this approach is usually too flooded and swampy. Wat Phraya Phan can only be visited a few months each year without major difficulty.
Describing the temples layout is problematic without further excavations and the removal of enormous amounts of vegetation. Nevertheless, Wat Phraya Phan is clearly designed on an east/west axis. In situ are traces of at least one collapsed chedi as well as its spire. There are some leftover Buddha images and many pottery shards (most of which are made from terra cotta). A large number of bricks and tile can be found all over this temple island. There is also evidence of other structures on site. Many mounds are covered by trees that hint of possible chedi encased within. The Fine Arts Department has done some minor excavation, leaving a series of one meter deep holes.
There was once had a moat encircling Wat Phraya Phan. It was connected to a canal system that ran from the Jesuit Portuguese settlement and Wat Jae(ng), making a turn at Wat Phraya Phan, and then heading toward the Chao Phraya River near the Dominican Portuguese settlement. This canal system essentially framed the land where the Portuguese were once concentrated. It clearly appears on Simon de La Loubère’s 1691 map. Wat Phraya Phan may have had some historic connection to the Portuguese camps, perhaps providing a place to worship for Buddhist laborers.
A number of deep trenches have been dug to the south of this monastery. It is not sure what function these served. They may have been used for some agricultural purpose, but this area remains unused and overgrown with a forest today.
This history of Wat Phraya Phan is unknown. There is no mention of this monastery in the Royal Chronicles. Nevertheless, it is worth pointing out that King Chettathirat (r. 1628-1629) had a second son named Phra Phan Pi Si San (Cushman 210). In the process of usurping the throne, King Prasat Thong had the king and both his sons executed. More research would be needed to determine if there is any connection between the two names.
Text & photographs by Ken May - Aug 2009 Aerial photographs by Tricky Vandenberg