| WAT PHUTTHAI SAWAN |
| In 715, a year of the serpent, fifth of the decade, on Thursday, the first day of the waxing moon of the fourth month, at two nalika and five bat in the morning, the King was pleased to order that a holy monastery, with a preaching hall and a great holy reliquary, be established at the Wiang Lek Royal Residence. Then he bestowed upon it the name of Phutthaisawan Monastery. (The Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya) |
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Wat Phuttai Sawan or the "Monastery of Lord Buddha of the Heavens” is located on
the south bank of the Chao Phraya River in an area presently called Samphao Lom (the
Capsized Junk sub-district), east of Khlong Thakian. It is situated opposite the mouth of
Khlong Chakrai Yai, presently called Khlong Tho, a canal linking the former Lopburi
River (present Khlong Muang or northern moat) with the Chao Phraya River and runs
adjacent the former Royal Palace grounds. The temple complex faces east and is
bordered on the north by the Chao Phraya River.
The temple was built in 1353 AD (715 CS) by King Ramathibodi I at the royal
residence of "Wiang Lek", the site where he first settled before establishing Ayutthaya as
the capital city in 1350. The temple was constructed after his elder brother (The ruler of
Suphan) defeated the Khmers and brought them back under the control of Ayutthaya in
1352. The temple was likely built by the large number of enslaved Khmer inhabitants
forcibly removed from Angkor to Ayutthaya at that time. The monastery was one of the
first temples constructed and had a preaching hall and a great holy reliquary.
The old temple complex was enclosed by an outer wall measuring 192 meters in length
and 92 meters in width. The viharn has its entry to the east and measures 48 meters in
length and 16 meters in width. The main Khmer-style prang is surrounded by a square
cloister. The cloister is enclosed by an outer wall, which along with the pillars inside
supports the roof. The floor of the terrace is one step higher than the court. The inner
wall of the cloister houses rows of Buddha images on decorated bases. Porticos lead
into the gallery of seated Buddha's.
The prang, representing the cosmic Mount Meru, is located in the middle of the ancient
compound and is built on an indented pedestal protruding towards the north and south,
resulting in a wing-like formation, which was characteristic for prangs of the early
Ayutthaya period. The "cella" or central small hall inside the prang, can be accessed
through a porch, located in the east and only by climbing stairs. The prang has two
staircases on the east and the west side. Over the cubic "cella" rises the central tower,
the bud-shaped prang. The "cella" houses a Buddha image. Decorations of the ceilings of
the porch and "cella" are still visible. There are two satellite buildings, being a mondop to
the north and the south of the main prang containing Buddha images. The difference
between Khmer built prangs and Ayutthaya prangs is that the first tapers off stepwise (in
tiers of decreasing size), while the latter tapers off gradually in a smooth way. Ayutthaya
prangs were mostly built with bricks and covered with stucco. On its pinnacle was a
Trishul, the "weapon of Indra". Major restoration work includes the principal prang,
which was renovated in the Rattanakosin period during King Chulalongkorn’s (Rama V)
reign around 1898-99 AD.
The statue of King U-Thong
Within the large prang was an image of King Ramathibodi I (King U-Thong). In 1784
AD, in the reign of King Rama I (1782–1809), Prince Krommuen Mahasakdi
Phonlasep went to Ayutthaya to restore the elephant kraal and found the figure. He
reported this to the King who decided to move the image to Bangkok. Later the figure
was re-casted as a Buddha image, gilded with silver and moved to the Phra Nak Hall.
Later, King Rama IV placed the image at the Prasat Phra Thep Bidorn (the Royal
Pantheon - The Shrine of the celestial Ancestors) in Wat Phra Kaew at Bangkok. The
standing decorated Buddha located in the side recess of the main prang at present, is a
new casting. Local people believe that the spirit of Ramathibodi I still resides here.
West of the cloister enclosing the prang lays a large ubosot (ordination hall), 32 meters
long by 14 meters wide. The building was restored in 1956 during the government of
Field Marshal Phibunsongkhram. The monastic structure is presently in use.
South of the viharn is another smaller viharn with a reclining Buddha. Within the outer
wall there are a number of chedi rai (small votive chedis) and small monastic structures.
The temple has been frequently restored throughout the Ayutthaya period. New
constructions include the chedis in row, some of which were built during the Middle
Ayutthaya period (1488 – 1628).
Outside the boundary wall
The monastic quarters are situated west of the old site. In situ is a two-storey building
called the Tamnak Phra Phutthakosajarn Hall (the residential building of Somdet Phra
Phutthakosajarn), which served as a model for the Jim Thompson's silk shop in
Bangkok. It was constructed together with its mural paintings in the late Ayutthaya
period (1628 – 1767). The base of the building, curved like the hull of a Chinese junk, is
classic for this period. The interior of the hall is highlighted with murals depicting the ten
Jatakas (reincarnations of the Budddha - The Pali canonical book of Theravada
Buddhism comprises 547 poems concerning the previous births of the Buddha) and the
Somdet Phra Phutthakosajarn's pilgrimage to the Footprint of Lord Buddha in Ceylon.
At present most of these paintings are faded.
This area has been regularly part of a war theatre. The Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya
mention that the army of the King of Ava, being the right wing of the Hongsawadi Army
investing Ayutthaya in 1549, set up its stockade in this area from Wat Phutthai Sawan to
the mouth of Khlong Takhian
References:
1. The Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya – Richard D. Cushman - Source: Phan
Canthanumat, British Museum, Reverend Phonnarat, Phra Cakkraphatdiphong & Royal
Autograph - 2006.
2. Discovering Ayutthaya - Charnvit Kasetsiri & Michael Wright - 2007.
the south bank of the Chao Phraya River in an area presently called Samphao Lom (the
Capsized Junk sub-district), east of Khlong Thakian. It is situated opposite the mouth of
Khlong Chakrai Yai, presently called Khlong Tho, a canal linking the former Lopburi
River (present Khlong Muang or northern moat) with the Chao Phraya River and runs
adjacent the former Royal Palace grounds. The temple complex faces east and is
bordered on the north by the Chao Phraya River.
The temple was built in 1353 AD (715 CS) by King Ramathibodi I at the royal
residence of "Wiang Lek", the site where he first settled before establishing Ayutthaya as
the capital city in 1350. The temple was constructed after his elder brother (The ruler of
Suphan) defeated the Khmers and brought them back under the control of Ayutthaya in
1352. The temple was likely built by the large number of enslaved Khmer inhabitants
forcibly removed from Angkor to Ayutthaya at that time. The monastery was one of the
first temples constructed and had a preaching hall and a great holy reliquary.
The old temple complex was enclosed by an outer wall measuring 192 meters in length
and 92 meters in width. The viharn has its entry to the east and measures 48 meters in
length and 16 meters in width. The main Khmer-style prang is surrounded by a square
cloister. The cloister is enclosed by an outer wall, which along with the pillars inside
supports the roof. The floor of the terrace is one step higher than the court. The inner
wall of the cloister houses rows of Buddha images on decorated bases. Porticos lead
into the gallery of seated Buddha's.
The prang, representing the cosmic Mount Meru, is located in the middle of the ancient
compound and is built on an indented pedestal protruding towards the north and south,
resulting in a wing-like formation, which was characteristic for prangs of the early
Ayutthaya period. The "cella" or central small hall inside the prang, can be accessed
through a porch, located in the east and only by climbing stairs. The prang has two
staircases on the east and the west side. Over the cubic "cella" rises the central tower,
the bud-shaped prang. The "cella" houses a Buddha image. Decorations of the ceilings of
the porch and "cella" are still visible. There are two satellite buildings, being a mondop to
the north and the south of the main prang containing Buddha images. The difference
between Khmer built prangs and Ayutthaya prangs is that the first tapers off stepwise (in
tiers of decreasing size), while the latter tapers off gradually in a smooth way. Ayutthaya
prangs were mostly built with bricks and covered with stucco. On its pinnacle was a
Trishul, the "weapon of Indra". Major restoration work includes the principal prang,
which was renovated in the Rattanakosin period during King Chulalongkorn’s (Rama V)
reign around 1898-99 AD.
The statue of King U-Thong
Within the large prang was an image of King Ramathibodi I (King U-Thong). In 1784
AD, in the reign of King Rama I (1782–1809), Prince Krommuen Mahasakdi
Phonlasep went to Ayutthaya to restore the elephant kraal and found the figure. He
reported this to the King who decided to move the image to Bangkok. Later the figure
was re-casted as a Buddha image, gilded with silver and moved to the Phra Nak Hall.
Later, King Rama IV placed the image at the Prasat Phra Thep Bidorn (the Royal
Pantheon - The Shrine of the celestial Ancestors) in Wat Phra Kaew at Bangkok. The
standing decorated Buddha located in the side recess of the main prang at present, is a
new casting. Local people believe that the spirit of Ramathibodi I still resides here.
West of the cloister enclosing the prang lays a large ubosot (ordination hall), 32 meters
long by 14 meters wide. The building was restored in 1956 during the government of
Field Marshal Phibunsongkhram. The monastic structure is presently in use.
South of the viharn is another smaller viharn with a reclining Buddha. Within the outer
wall there are a number of chedi rai (small votive chedis) and small monastic structures.
The temple has been frequently restored throughout the Ayutthaya period. New
constructions include the chedis in row, some of which were built during the Middle
Ayutthaya period (1488 – 1628).
Outside the boundary wall
The monastic quarters are situated west of the old site. In situ is a two-storey building
called the Tamnak Phra Phutthakosajarn Hall (the residential building of Somdet Phra
Phutthakosajarn), which served as a model for the Jim Thompson's silk shop in
Bangkok. It was constructed together with its mural paintings in the late Ayutthaya
period (1628 – 1767). The base of the building, curved like the hull of a Chinese junk, is
classic for this period. The interior of the hall is highlighted with murals depicting the ten
Jatakas (reincarnations of the Budddha - The Pali canonical book of Theravada
Buddhism comprises 547 poems concerning the previous births of the Buddha) and the
Somdet Phra Phutthakosajarn's pilgrimage to the Footprint of Lord Buddha in Ceylon.
At present most of these paintings are faded.
This area has been regularly part of a war theatre. The Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya
mention that the army of the King of Ava, being the right wing of the Hongsawadi Army
investing Ayutthaya in 1549, set up its stockade in this area from Wat Phutthai Sawan to
the mouth of Khlong Takhian
References:
1. The Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya – Richard D. Cushman - Source: Phan
Canthanumat, British Museum, Reverend Phonnarat, Phra Cakkraphatdiphong & Royal
Autograph - 2006.
2. Discovering Ayutthaya - Charnvit Kasetsiri & Michael Wright - 2007.
| Text by Tricky Vandenberg - March 2009 Photographs by Somchai Pattanavaew - April 2009 |
| (South east side) |
| (Ubosot and prang - south west side) |
| (South east side) |
| (Vihara of the Reclining Buddha) |
| (The cloister) |
| (Statue of King U-Thong) |
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| (Click button for ground plan or aerial view) |